2000 Civic SI Build

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Little John Build Page

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"Little John"  (10/2012)

Little John is the motor I have wanted to build for some time, with two exceptions. It is stock bore / stroke B18C1 and it is not sleeved. Everything else is what I wanted. So this is the build page about how it came to life.

The Story: The bottom end of my 2000 Civic SI was "plain wore out". When you realize this, you do one of two things: you either baby it, or you run the hell out of it. I won't tell you which choice I made, but lets just say that a rod bearing and 9,700 rpm didn't like each other.

The rod started knocking on Sunday, September 9th, 2011. On Monday the 10th I located a used 1999 GSR long block at a junkyard in Joplin, Mo. Tueday the 11th it was paid for and shipped. Now the fun begins !

The original plan was to take the 1999 GSR long block and drop it into my car. This would give me some time to send my other GSR block out to Golden Eagle to be sleeved. Good plan. On  the following Sunday I put the GSR motor up on the stand to drain any remaining oil and to put on my valve cover. When I took the valve cover off I noticed there were AEM adjustable cam gears on this. Now I am a little concerned. When you buy a GSR motor with 174,000 miles on it and it has adjustable cam gears you wonder how hard of a life it had had. Did it have a turbo? NOS? Was anything else done to it? So I decided to check it out and put my B16 head on it with a new gasket. Pulled the GSR head and it had a 3 layer MLS aftermarket head gasket. Uh Oh! So now I know it was run hard. What else is wrong, or right? Took the pan off. Since I was doing bearings on a motor with 174k on it, why not do rings? Wow, just had a wonderful thought. The pistons in my B16 are 81mm also, and they were originally manufactured for the B18C1. Since there is no additional cost I might as well reuse them, right?

You can see where this is going. Now we are to the point where this is going to be one bad ass motor. Follow along as I document all the steps and upgrades I took, to bring you "Little John", my in between motor.

First things first. Remove the old B16A2.


Next I cleaned and degreased the B18C1 block and started pulling it apart.


Here is the old block and the new block on the stands in my shop.


Block is honed, block guard is in (middle picture) and the bottom is cleaned up.


Crank put in, journals measured and new ACL bearing clearance checked. Everything within spec.


Now the TimeSerts !!! This process is a little scary. Basically you take a big drill, a long drill bit, and you start drilling into a perfectly good block. The kit works great and allows you to put a steel insert in to hold the head studs. Effectively increasing the amount of torque you can put on the head before pulling aluminum threads out. Did this on mt last motor after a couple of studs pulled out.

Tape on and head bolt hole located.


Holes cut out of the tape with a razor blade. There will be LOTS of aluminum floating around and we don't want it getting any place it shouldn't be.


Here is my half inch drill (which didn't make it through all the holes before it started smoking). Had to replace it to finish the last 3 holes. Look at the length of the bit. You drill all the way down to the collar you can see on it.


Here is the drill fully inserted. You do one hole at a time. There will be lots of shavings so don't freak out.


Then you get the big tap and make new threads for the insert. Put the insert in with some Loctite and your done. Then on to the next hole. I did this for all ten cylender head bolt holes.


Here is the new combo: Wiseco K541M81 pistons (approx 8.6 to 8.81 compression ratio), K1 Billet 4340 Steel H Beam Rods (HH5433ACFB4), and Wiseco Havy Duty Tool Steel Wristpins.

Look at the difference in the wall thickness for the heavy duty pin compared to the standard one.


Here it is ! Pistons in, rings custom fit to each chamber, rod and main bearings clearance check and installed,  crank torqued to spec,  rods  torqued until bolts were stretched .006  (manual calls for 33 ft lb on factory rod bolts. Using the stretch method as recommended by K1 ended up being between 50 and 55 ft lb.  Torqueing to 50 ft lb gave us  .005 of rod bolt stretch.  Did the extra .001 by hand).


Windage tray and pickup on.


Rear mains seal installed.


Pan gasket and pan put on.


Head studs tightened down.

Cylinder head cleaned and ready to be put on.


Head bolted on and torqued to 85 ft lb. Water pipe installed along with the thermostat and housing. On the front there is a new waterpump and timing belt tensioner.


Cams installed and timing belt on.


Valve cover bolted on and Tilton Twin Disc installed. On the B series motors there are some modifications that need to be made to the clutch. I had to grind off the tips of the studs on the pressure plate, otherwise there could be some interference with trans case. Used my angle grinder and was very careful. Also have the Fluidampr and all accessory drive on the front.


Trans all cleaned up and ready to go. For a standard throw out bearing to work with the Tilton clutch you have to trim the inner sleeve of the throw out bearing down so the sleeve sits below the bearing surface.  Found it easiest to cut this using a razor knife.


Clutch in, trans on. Starting to put the balance of motor together before install.


Here is the intake manifold drilled and tapped for the direct port nitrous injectors.


Intake bolted on, Turbo and exhaust mainfold bolted on. Almost ready for install.


Finally, motor is back in engine bay. Now for all the hook up......


More Later.

   If you have Questions or comments feel free to email me
Page was last updated    11/12/2012