2000 Civic SI Build

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Crank Evac System and Theory



12-28-2005 Lot's happened with the build of the SI. Back in April burned a valve up when the fuel solenoid for my nitrous system malfunctioned. The ProScan setup worked great. As soon as the valve burned, the check engine light started flashing violently. When I clicked on the trouble codes it told me there was a misfire in cylinder number 4. Sure enough this was the bad cylinder. Went ahead and yanked the head off and found the lean nitrous condition ate the valve away. While the engine was down put a set of Wiseco 7.75:1 pistons in, along with a set of Eagle Rods. Steadied the block with a Golden Eagle block guard and head studs. Stuffed some Supertech nitrided valves in with dual springs and titanium retainers and had the ports in the head cleaned up a little bit. Put it together with a Cometic Gasket. Parts in the head should be good to 9000 rpm. Got the motor back together and running on June 21st, 2005. Moved the MSD 6AL, Two Step, and RPM Switch to the glove box. Now it is exposed to less moisture, heat etc... and it gives more room for the T4 that will hopefully go in this spring. Got a Optima Yellow Top Battery to help with the voltage requirements of all the electronics and computer. Had to have my nitrous bottle re-certified over the summer, couldn't get it refilled until I did. Local shop was a little worried since I bought the bottle with my original nitrous setup in 1986. Bottle checked out OK so I was back in business. Added three additional gauges to the driver side pillar. Now I can monitor oil pressure, oil temp, nitrous pressure, brake line pressure, vacuum/boost and have a clock. Still have to get the AEM Wide Band Gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. After that I can monitor just about anything. Moved the MSD Blaster 3 coil down on the frame out of the way. Made for a lot cleaner install. Working on a Crankcase Evacuation System. Have rigged a temporary set up for now. Will be attaching the check valve into the exhaust system shortly to create a negative pressure to pull the fumes straight into the exhaust. Car has been running great over the last six months. Now its time to start playing again. Next project will be a good clutch and flywheel setup. Probably going with one of the 8 pound flywheels. After that, the AEM EMS will be going in, of course, interfaced with the onboard PC for easy adjustment. Here are some pictures for you to see the progress. Click on any picture to open up a larger, higher resolution version.

 Pictures from 06/10/2005:

 Fuel System Layout       Pistons, Head Studs & Block Guard In



Pictures from 06/21/2005

In the Driveway            Close up of motor and fuel system 



Pictures from 12/28/2005

Drivers Side Pillar           Passenger Side Pillar  Engine Compartment




Electronics In Glove Box


04-04-2005 Got the fuel system done yesterday. Had to modify the in tank pump bracket and sending unit. Now pump is connected directly to a -6 braided line going into a bulkhead connector. From there -6 line runs to a Moroso Y-Block and feeds into a -8 line all the way forward. The second entry on the Y-Block is currently plugged off, but will eventually have a line from a second fuel pump attached. That way I am sure I get the volume that I need. In the engine compartment the -8 line connects to a Russell Fuel Filter and then into a Golden Eagle fuel rail. Gage is attached to fuel rail to help in monitoring pressure. From the fuel rail a -6 line runs over to feed the fuel Solenoid for the nitrous. Installed the scan tool and software from Gore Research. Cool setup. Once I get it completely figured out, it will be great to help troubleshoot problems. As a matter of fact, I already know why my check engine light is on, darn converter. Anyway, here are the pics of the completed (for now) engine compartment.

Completed Fuel and Nitrous System  





03-30-2005 Been working on the Nitrous system lately and getting things ready for the turbo. Have the solenoids and nozzle all plumbed in and functional for Stage 1. Installed switches in the console for the bottle warmer, remote solenoid on/off valve, NOS stage 1, NOS stage 2, and the purge buttons. Used an old solenoid I had laying around to make the purge kit for the nitrous side. Came off the solenoid and custom bent a piece of brake line, drilled a small hole through the upper firewall and out the plastic trim piece near the wiper on the drivers side. Now the purge line blows in front of the driver. Have -8 line to run from the tank to an inline filter, then to the Golden Eagle Fuel Rail. From the rail a -6 line will go over to the fuel solenoid. Going to move the MSD hardware into the passenger compartment this weekend. This will give me room for the turbo manifold. Found a manifold that bolts the T4 up and allows me to retain my AC. Looking forward to that in the next few months. Have the ProScan setup from Gore Research to interface the computer with the OBDII port. Will be nice to see what my check engine light is, and it also has a cool quarter mile tree built into it.

Solenoids mounted       Another View....         Bottle mounted



Nitrous control switches    The other side.....        Silver pieceabove center is purge line



01-31-2005 Been real busy these days. Haven't had much time to work on my car. Have accomplished a couple of things though. I ripped out the brake lines in the engine compartment and redesigned the way they are routed. Hondas stock system routes the left front/right rear on one circuit of the master cylinder, and the right front/left rear on the other. This is fine for the safety issues of stopping, but does nothing to help consistency off the line. Now the lines are re-routed and the fronts work on on circuit from the master cylinder, and the rears work on the other circuit from the master cylinder. I used some parts from my pro-street car to accomplish this. The lines now run into Direct Connection adjustable proportioning valves. I can control the brake bias from front to rear by turning a knob under the hood. The front line is then run to a Hurst Roll Control so the line lock feature works. When I push the brake pedal down (to whatever pressure I choose) and then push the button on the shifter, the brakes are locked at that pressure until I release the button. At the same time, that button limits the Two Step on my MSD box so that the car only revs to 6,000 RPM. When you hold the gas pedal to the floor and the brakes are locked you are ready for a more consistent run. Release the button, brakes release, and you come off the line at the same RPM each time. I am going to try putting a line lock on the clutch also. That will happen in the next couple of months. That way, all I would have to worry about is watching the lights and releasing the button. Here are a couple of pictures. Remember, these aren't brand new parts. I plan on painting and cleaning them up this summer when the weather gets better.

 Hurst Roll Control         Brake Proportioning     Shifter with Line Lock 

 / Two Step                      Valve



09-03-2004 Wow !! It's been over two months since my last update. Have included some new pics of some of my work. Started some of the monitoring mods. Installed 2 5/8" gauges on the passenger side pillar post. Fiberglassed my own gauge pods for the passenger side (can't find passenger side with three 2 5/8" gauges), layout is perfect, but it's too bulky. Ended up mounting them using the standard Autometer brackets. Gauges include, Brake Pressure, Boost/Vacuum, and a Clock. Biggest problem I had with the car computer was not having a clock when I first get in the car, or when I am going a short distance and don't want to turn the pc on. Vacuum side of the gauge is all that functions now. Have to wait to get the T4 Turbo on for the Boost side to show some numbers. The Brake Pressure gauge is for consistency off the line with my line locks. Sucks that Honda split the brake system the way they did. Have to have two line locks to hold the car for launch. My biggest treasure is the "Slower Traffic Keep Right" sticker that is mounted inside the front windshield (backwards). Makes people driving slow in the fast lane realize they are in the wrong lane. Got my USB GPS in and functional. Routis GPS software is great. Having a lot of fun with it right now. Moved the USB Radio Extreme to the front of the car. Used a shorter adapter to connect to the car antenna. Reception is considerably better now. Although, it is not up to the quality of a head unit. Got all the MSD paraphernalia on; 6AL, Two-Step, RPM Switch. Also mounted the MSD Shift light on the upper end of the drivers side pillar. Very noticeable when the red light flashes on at 8,000 RPM. Getting ready for the AEM EMS, hopefully in the next few months.

Gauges Installed         MSD Shift Light          From drivers side


Sporting my new sticker                                      Engine compartment


MSD 6AL, Two-Step, RPM Switch, 

Nitrous Solenoids

06-30-2004 Been a while since I posted. Pictures are all up to date now. Hope they help some of you, or at least give you ideas with your install. Finally got the project to a point that as far as the install part I feel it is finished. Still have to get the GPS software and receiver. That's one of my priorities, but not at the top of the list. First thing I want to do is get the OBDII software. I am going to use ProScan from Gore Research. Has a lot of nice features for monitoring all aspects of the engine performance. Even has a 1/4 mile tree/program built into it. After that, I will probably get the gauges installed in one of the Autometer pillar pods. Gonna put the three gauge pod in. Want to have Brake Pressure (to monitor for the line lock), Boost (for when the turbo goes on), and Fuel pressure (all electronic gauge to measure the pressure on the nitrous side of the fuel system). Next will be the stand alone fuel management system from AEM. That will pretty much get my electronics done, as I am installing the MSD 6AL box, Two-Step, and RPM Switch this weekend. Think I am going to install the button for the line lock / Two-Step on the parking brake handle button (one button to control both, that way when the button is held the front brakes are locked so that I don't creep forward on the line, while the Two-Step limits RPM to whatever I find to be a good launch RPM). The RPM Switch will be used for activating the nitrous solenoids at a predetermined RPM once I get the nitrous kit.

06-08-2004 Well, all good things must come to an end. Who would have thought the transmission in my 1988 Honda Accord would go out after only 313,000 miles! Thought about taking it back and complaining, but didn't figure I'd get very far. So option #2 was to go get a new car. Being that I grew up with the drag racing bug (I like all that fast stuff), I decided to go ahead and get something good. Enter a 2000 Honda Civic SI. Been doing a lot of reading, and looking for vehicles that would have a nice clean install look. The SI fit the description. Nice big cover around a double din slot, big enough trunk for my sons goalie equipment (thank God the rear seats fold down), 160 hp DOHC VTEC, and every option I wanted. Had to go with the 2 door to get the big motor and SI package, but, the kids are big enough that the can get in and out of the back seat themselves. Plenty of room for the turbo and nitrous setup. Got into all of my race car parts for my Pro Street Cutlass. Will be using the MSD 6AL box, Two Step, and RPM Activated Switch. Also had a brand new MSD Shift Light and a Turbo from an old project that I never put on. It was like Christmas all over.

Had to take the computer system out of the old car before they came and took it away. It's been 4 weeks since I got the new car, and the whole system is installed and functional. Pictures of the install follow: Went ahead and got the Radio Extreme - USB FM Radio. Went to Radio shack and got the parts to go from the car FM antenna to coax, from coax to a 1/8" line in/speaker plug. With the radio hooked up, reception was not stellar. So I got a 10db inline antenna booster from Radio Shack. Reception improved dramatically. Next I will get one of the bigger boosters (I think they are 26db) and see if that makes it even better. Have a slim DVD/CDRW to install, got the slim CD adapter and the IDE to USB 2.0 adapter. However, the IDE to USB 2.0 adapter was defective, so had to send it back to NY for replacement. As soon as it gets here it will be mounted in the center console in front of the cup holders. Took the big step and completely disassembled my Lilliput. I cut the case up and epoxied it into the factory radio/AC bezel. Then lots of bondo, sanding, bondo, sanding, bondo, sanding, etc.... Un-Soldered the USB type connector and the power connector from the pcb. Wired the power to a molex connector for easy removal. Then soldered two wires to the power switch so it could be turned on with out the remote, if need be. Mounted all the control switches in the bezel along with the infra red receiver for the monitor (I broke the original, so had to go to Radio Shack and get a replacement). Thankfully the monitor still worked after I completed all my mods. Decided not to go with Coyotes power on mod. Have the infra red and a switch to control mine. Don't mind pushing a button or two. Anyway, pictures of the install are shown below.

Page was last updated   08/28/2014 23:46